Patagonia - Hanging out in Darwin's old stomping grounds

Since I began this leg of the journey in Ushuaia, Argentina I suppose it is appropriate to say "let me start at the bottom". El fin del Mundo (The End of the World... the city situated the furthest south on the planet) actually feels just like the last stop on earth.

Reminded me of an old (latin) Whistler back when my family stayed near Creekside at a friend's place who had no running water so trapsing through the snow at night to an outhouse was the norm. (Yes I am THAT old). They of course still have graffiti so I took a photo of one of my favourites.

Okay I'm not painting an accurate image of Ushuaia. They have running water and toilets inside the hostels but it does have an old ski town vibe. See for yourself exactly what it looks like. Beauty eh?

Took a catamaran boat ride up the Beagle Channel to photograph sea lions and penguins for my nephew Max who has now taken to emailing me with requests I will always try to oblige. 

These shots are for you Maxy!

On my walk home I passed kids doing bike tricks in a ramp park and a futbol match. Both were being played against the backdrop of the Andes. Seemed a little sureal so I toasted my day with some Fin del Mundo vino blanco. Perfecto.

Followed that up with a 7hr trek through the Tierra del Fuego National Park the following day with some pals I met at the hostel. Emily from Montreal (22) and Jonathan from Germany (19).

Emily from Montreal and Jonathan from Germany joined me for the day hike

Once again the views were staggeringly beautiful and we managed to share some stories and laughs about life on the road and cultural differences that seem to leap into view when you enter the backpacker route.

proof I was in Chile

On from there I rolled northbound to Puerto Natales, Chile via a 16hr bus ride that will seem short after my journey through South America over the next 15 wks. Puerto Natales actually manages to have less to offer by way of a town than even Ushuaia but their claim to fame is the Torres del Paine National Park and that little sliver of the globe is none too shabby.

ouch...

Towers carved by glaciers, waterfall filled lakes in shades of crayola crayons and wildlife maintaining the circle of life even after the terrible fire that raged in January and burned a large area of the park.

Oh and the Singing Lamb hostel serves THE BEST oatmeal, scrambled eggs and homemade toast I've had this side of the equator so staying there for two nights was a great way to recharge a little. Again I am photographing food for new mamma Foxy to revel at.


Next I continued north on a 5hr bus back to Argentina (for a 3rd time in just over 2wks) to reunite with Roxy (we met in Buenos Aires) in El Calafate.

This town I loved.

So much lavender, monkey trees and awesome restaurants/shopping. Plus we were there during the towns 135 anniversary festival week so there was dancing and music all around. Not a bad deal for also being 30minutes away from the glacier.

There is just no way to capture the Perito Moreno glacier on a camera.

Quaint but active and the launching point to see Perito Moreno glacier. Epic. Boarded another catamaran to get up close and personal with this mammoth slab of shifting ice as it melts and giant segments break off and thunder to the lake with a subsequent tidal wave. Could only have been better if my mom were here since it was her birthday. Wish I could have caught it on video but I wasn't successful in that endeavor so if you want to watch, check out youtube. I can only imagine others before me have timed things better. 

If you can believe it, I am now in yet another bus, this time a brief 3hr hop, skip and jump north to El Chalten which is the home of the Fitz Roy mountain range and is said to be the treking capital of the Andes. Bring it on. 

Overall I have enjoyed this cooler climate and brilliant topography, though the distances are daunting, make no mistake, and this is only the beginning. 

I've finally managed to remember 100% of the time that toilet paper does not go in the toilet on this continent, that road lanes are just pretty drawings not guides for safe passage, that sleep is not a priority so get past it, that wifi is as abundant as empinadas and knowing how to habla even a little espanol is better than none at all. 

Hope you are all well, happy and healthy.
xox
b