Tuesday, 1 May 2012

Isla Fernandina / Isla Santiago / Isla Rabida

After a short cruise from Isla Isabel last night we got to sleep in the calm waters of Tagus Cove.

If you can believe it this is the graffiti capital of the Galapagos dating back to when the Buccaneers used the spot as a hide away and carved their names into the towering rock walls.

Oldest I could find dated back to 1836 (see right) and you'll probably be happy to know graffiti is no longer allowed though the decision was recent so there are plenty of spray painted tags here too.

The cove was filled with an erie, yet beautiful, fog at 6am when we took an hour long panga ride along the shore to see the usual suspects (blue footed boobies, sea lions, pelicans, turtles etc).

When we came back to Eden, which you can see in the distance in the photo to the left, we were excited to see at least a dozen Galapagos penguins swimming around the hull eating the fish that were attracted to the alge on the boat. A speedy breakfast and we all hopped into the water to swim with them for ages! If I was excited about the individual penguins I saw over the past few days it was nothing compared to being within inches of a dozen! 

After lunch we snorkeled again, this time at Bahia Espinoza and I was taken aback by the brightness of the colours in the star fish that covered the sea floor.Thanks to Dor's underwater camera you get to see one of the starfish too!

More penguins, turtles and sea lions joined us but it feels like that should almost be assumed at this point. On shore we visited the largest sea lion colony, including two males fighting out for alpha status, my first Galapagos Hawks close up and the remains of a Sperm whale. 

Quick fact: The difference between seals and sea lions is that sea lions have ears and can "walk" a little using their flippers. Just so you feel like I was learning something not just getting water logged this entire time.  

Early dinner since the next stop, Isla Santiago, was a 13hr cruise away. Thankfully the anti nausea pills continued to work well and the crossing of the equator (twice in the 13hrs) went smoothly. Here's the view from the island over a "sea" of marine iguanas looking out at Eden.
Santiago is the spot for fur seals... which is a misleading name since they are actually sea lions.

Did you check for ears? Good for you! 

Interesting fact is to hear fur seals are born without knowing how to swim! Their mothers have to take them into the water and teach them over the course of a few months. Total shocker!!!

Two hour tanning session got us to Isla Rabida for more flamingos and another white tip reef shark plus the many tropical fish I normally am in awe of in other countries, but seem to have been ignoring due to all the other wildlife around here. Saw my first eel though which was cool and truthfully a bit scary. Eeek! I wonder what I will do if I ever see a Hammerhead on San Cristobal later this week!? 

Tomorrow wraps up my time on Eden. It has been spectacular but I will be ready to be the captain of my own ship by then.

Missing you but can't imagine leaving early with things like this to see and do!
xox
b

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