I'm just saying...

Because it wouldn't be traveling without poking some fun... 

This is the sound system on the bus we took out to the beachside "resort" in Palomino. A simple wiring plan I think you'll agree. Obviously.

The good news always being that they never exceed a comfortable volume level so everyone can enjoy the music. Oh wait I got that wrong... the goal actually seems to be 'How can we get blood to pour out of the passengers ears without using a scalpel?'. My mistake.  It is one of the themes on this continent.

  BLARE anything you have. 

It is not unusual to be walking down the street past a minimum of two shops (door by door), clearly battling the airwaves alongside a live act playing on the street also pumping the beats, layering in taxis honking over and over. I've actually had moments where I just cover my ears.

Rocking in a ball on the curb is only days away. I know it.  

South Americans also like to speed and generally ignore any road rules. Rules? What rules?  I'm not really sure they have any, I'm just thinking back to ours I think.  I've been on so many buses who advertise in the ticket booth that they publish their speeds inside the bus. I had assumed this was because the drivers would follow the speed limits more and this is therefore desirable to passengers. Living through the drive and al that. Turns out that it is untrue since they almost never actually work. Ohhh you were so close South America. Good effort. 

This is another gem... the old Open 24hours sign for a pharmacy that actually never seems to open their doors. I almost want to guess that the location has moved but I don't see any arrows so I'm thinking no.

South Americans also have a much different understanding concerning "personal space". Seemingly they actually don't need any. It is a subtle thing but feeling the heat of strangers on all sides is totally undesirable. At least to me. A favourite Nikki quote "I should not be able to feel your groceries in my back as I wait to pay". Agreed.   In line at a coffee shop the other day I felt so crowded by this one guy I actually turned around and gestured as if to say "is there something in front of me you need to see?" Blank stare in return. No step back. Serenity Now. I mean it is soooo hot here don't you want some air space? MAYDAY

My favourite is the graffiti.

No matter how small the town there is a worthy artist.

Palomino is a blip of a town, but I wasn't left hanging.

Thanks to all the artists who make the streets come alive. You are inspiring and I have "lifted" your creativity into my journal at each opportunity.

There are of course plenty of quirky South American traits I will miss and have enjoyed laughing at and struggling through.                                                 Felt like you might enjoy a sample.

xo
b

Final days

 Admit it, when you have pictured me out here on this adventure, you home in the cold, heading to work in the dark and returning home in the dark this past winter, you romanticized that this is where I have been this entire time. Among the palms and thatched roofs. 

I've done my best to burst that bubble through this blog because, well, to start I think the truth has been WAY more interesting and I have also hoped that you've found the ridiculous stuff funny which eases the regret you may have of not being out here with me.  As always you're welcome :) and there is always next time. 

So to recap... this oasis is not where I have been for the past 18wks. I've been in sweaty or ice burg-like buses dying a little inside every time at the thought that my backpack is being thieved at every stop. I've been killing time in any number of airports, praying my stuff doesn't get soaked in a variety of "boat-like" structures. I've been slipping around in mud and rain, doing my best to avoid roaches & tarantulas, sharing dorm rooms with up to 11 other human beings (I use the term loosely for some) from all walks of life. People who think nothing of turning on an overhead light at 4am to have a full voice conversation about their need to "hide the coke" because the policia are outside wanting to take them to the "station" if they don't show them their passports.  I've been muddling through spanglish crossing all my limbs that what I ordered for dinner will taste like something more than texture and less than a pet. Trying to work out yet another exchange rate because I know as a gringo I'm getting ripped off but by how much? Always with the knowledge that soon my ears will pop from another major change in altitude. 

To be fair I have also been discovering what it feels like to swim with galapagos penguins, describe wine, hike the Andes, make amazing new friends who also find it hard not to laugh at what is going on around us when the differences are just so thick, savor unique foods (I will miss you Lulo and Mora), breath in sea or crisp mountain air as I practice yoga and generally reinvent myself with each new stop as I see fit.

So yes I suppose you are due some jealousy and for my last three days this is where I was. An oasis 2 hours north east of Santa Marta on the caribbean coast in Palomino, Colombia. 

Wish you were here. Home soon

xo

b

The Sweat Box - aka Cartagena

I am surprised to report that although Cartagena is suffering from what felt like at least 100% humidity (or is that rain?) we stayed here for four nights. I actually can't believe I survived that long but it would have been a shame to leave the beautiful city any sooner and hey they had dorm rooms, jewelry shops and restaurants with a/c. What more could I ask for outside of the ability to draw breath while wandering around the old town?

To give you a sense for how hot it is I have started with a photo showing you a shop keeper just trying to survive. This guy LIVES here and he's struggling. We passed three other employees outside this shop before we entered.  ALL were lying across benches like melted cheese, arms draped over their eyes. Only one took the time to look over at us as we passed by. Not one rose to actually sell us anything. Including this fine gent.  Point made but maybe if he would sell us something he could afford some a/c. It's a thought. 

Here's a sample of what the old city looks like. Stunning. Obviously Joan Wilder knew there were more reasons to be here, outside of searching for her sister with Michael Douglas.

The old city is surrounded by an old stone wall separating it from the port and the new areas of the city which I honestly didn't have any interest in seeing.

One downfall of this place is the incessant honking, mostly from cabbies but sometimes it seems regular citizens join in for the joy of making LOUD NOISES (like Steve Carell in Anchorman) for no apparent reason. I will admit to getting a mild case of turrets after a few days. I mean for GAWD's sake why can't they just trust me to flag them down when I DO need a lift?

In order to make my feelings clear, I should have just "borrowed" this sign, which  I found in one of the squares,  and walked around with it over my shoulder.    They clearly know it is an aggravating problem if they are making signs right?

The two main adventures available around the Cartagena area include...

ONE: Soaking in the bubbling mud from a nearby volcano.

Riiiggghhht

Okay so this doesn't just sound gross... BUT... I needed a creative way to wish my girl Kate"PooPoo" Roy a Happy 6th Birthday and this seemed like the perfect venue.

Imagine sitting in a 15' wide "bathtub" of warm gurgling mud, elbow to elbow with 10 other gringos and 3 Colombian men would want to "massage" you (for a fee) while another guy takes photos (for a fee) and later women try to clean you off in the nearby lagoon (for a fee).  I agreed to photos only.

Yarf-ville

Nikki kept laughing at me, due, she said, to the pained expression I had on my face the entire time.  "Are we done yet?"

TWO: Visit Playa Blanco via a 20 minute poorly organized boat ride for the day. I say poorly organized because once again (why am I still surprised by this after almost five months of repeated exposure?) we learned we had to pay an incremental "park tax" after we'd bought our boat tickets at the hostel... TO - GO - TO - THE - PARK ... Why don't they just include everything in the one ticket? I mean you can't opt out of paying the park tax but still go to the park? Hello? Okay breath... it must be the heat.

Then they had us wait almost two hours in the sun at the port waiting to leave with no explanation as to why or when we might do so. Lack of information is a killer for North Americans Nikki and I have decided. Every time we asked for a departure time we received the "we will go in five minutes" lie. We started to count out our raging outbursts using the helpful, one one thousand, two one thousand method. Sheer Torture.

Anyways, you can stay on the island as well if you want but it's a 'sleeping in hammocks arrangement' peppered with swarms of mosquitos at dusk. We took a pass, and just enjoyed a day in the surf before buying our bus tickets on to Santa Marta for the following afternoon. I say afternoon because we had to squeeze in one more trip to the ice cream shop for my final bowl of Lulo and Mora helado before heading further up the coast.

xox
b

A 'moving' last day in Medellin

Most people who know of Medellin think only of the times when cocaine wars ravaged the country driven by Pablo Escobar's Medellin cartel, and of course the fact that there were streets with invisible lines drawn - to cross them would result in being shot down - no questions asked.

Yes tough neighbourhood.  I agree. 

Good thing so much has changed and the citizens and gov't are due some 'props' for turning things around so significantly.

As I mentioned earlier, there has been a significant investment made into the city and one of the improvements was to install a Metocable system connecting the city to a National Park in the hills just above the slums. Connecting all citizens to the beauty that surrounds them.

The gondola cars are spotless and uber safe even though they glide over, and have multiple stops in, one of the poorest area of the city.  At one station they also have a huge beautiful library sitting on the edge of the hill. They really seem intent on making the lives of the less fortunate better. Not something you see in many countries that deal with serious poverty.

Much to our surprise, as we rose through the hills, we began to notice at least a dozen huge cloth pictures draped across walls and roofs of the slums promoting "justice", "tolerance", "love" etc.

The inspirational posters reflect the faces of all kinds of Colombians; all age ranges, male & female, young & old, light & dark to surround the inhabitants and those cruising above with some inspiration.






It was really a very moving part of the journey.  I wish Canada had this kind of huge art installation throughout our cities.





When we finally reached the National Park we actually didn't have any significant time to walk around because, in the afternoon, we were heading to the airport bound for Cartagena via Bogota.

Yes you read me right. Planes number 13 &14 to date. I suppose the purchase of some carbon offsets will be in order when I get back home.

While at the entrance to the park, I did take a quick snapshot of a sleeping dog because I have recently felt remiss in not commenting on how relaxed the 'perros' (dogs) of South America have been.  Never in my life do I recall seeing dogs just lay down and nap ANYWHERE. Busy sidewalks, streets, shops... it makes no difference.

Originally I though maybe they were dead but no, healthy as ever so not to worry Kruz,  Frankers and all you other dog lovers out there.

I suppose we just tell our dogs to move "off the couch", "out of the doorway" etc in North America so in our culture they stick to the safe zones. These dogs don't even flinch when people walk by or over them to continue on their way. Strange.

Off to Cartagena - wish us luck.
xo
b

All in the Family

Thanks to my favourite Canadian-Latina,  Justine + Nikki and I were treated to a rare and outstanding day spent with Colombian locals Eduardo and Rosita Velez! Two of the best hosts you could EVER ask for. Colombians are incredibly warm people and the five of us had an amazing day.  

How I managed to forget about my fear of heights until I arrived at the Piedra del Penol 2 hours outside of Medelline, is beyond me, but once I got up close to the staircase comprised of 659 steps I remembered pretty damn quick! 

It was actually not as scary as I had worried it would be and this is the view... well worth a few shaky leg moments...  

Here's Nikki, Eduardo, Myself and Justine at the absolute top. Rosita stayed at the restaurant level to order us up some fresh mango. Whadda lady!

Eduardo explained that the area was actually flooded about 15 years ago as part of a project to use the local river for hydro power.  

Our hosts took us on a boat ride through the canals to a waterfall nearby after we spent some time wandering the quaint colourful streets of Guatape. Love all the colours but check out the little critter on the exterior of this beauty... pink panther. You guessed it. Random!  

We also checked out the local church and though it is a strange sight to see I suppose I should be impressed to know they are using energy efficient bulbs in the chandeliers. 

We wrapped up the day with lunch and then on the way home we were taken to another small village about 40mins outside of Medellin, known for killer desserts. 

We had no problem crushing this waffle covered in Mora, Strawberry, Vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce! DELISH!   

Incredible hosts ... thanks Jess for the hook up!

Tomorrow Nikki and I will visit the National Park via the gondola and then board my 13th & 14th flights bound for Cartagena (via Bogota).   

Looking forward to working on my tan before I get home but the forecast for Cartagena says 38C... scary!

xo b

Pablo Vive!!! I think not and you can tell Elvis I said so.

It's hard to know if, as a tourist, you should even mention Pablo Escobar's name to Paisas (locals from Medellin).

People remain pretty passionate about the impact this infamous cocaine king pin had on their city and country but as you'd expect there are those who do want to share the story and make a few bucks in the process so there is no shortage of Pablo tours in the city.

The tour company we picked had creatively inserted the FBI symbol on their flyers and in fine print wrote "Find the Best Information" underneath. I appreciated the creativity so they had my vote. 

The tour lasts about 2.5 hours and had us driving around the city in circles so they could tell the life story of Pablo in sequence starting with how he originally became a petty drug (weed... does that REALLY count???) dealer and gravestone seller (stealing stones from the cemetery with his cousin, rubbing off the carvings and reselling them) because he was kicked out of school for stealing the answers to a test and selling them to his fellow classmates. Hmmm, I feel like I know someone with a similar school 'prank' story and they didn't become a massive drug dealer and/or murderer. Anywhoots to each their own and yes I am aware that I am oversimplifying.      



Our first stop was outside one of Pablo's homes. We learned that he had all of his homes built in white, to  honour the powder that was funding it all. This towering building was home to a total of five family members. Seems like overkill to me and it isn't even pretty. He should have called B's designer Karen.

The locals seem to think that his desire to be loved by the people and therefore to enter politics is what brought him and subsequently the Medellin cartel down.  Insane fact: The Colombian government allowed him to design his own prison and be in charge of the security when he finally did get "caught". 


We later came to the building where Pablo's life ended after escaping from "jail".  His aunt's home in a less affluent neighbourhood where he though he'd be safe.

There are three versions of the story on how he was killed, including one where he killed himself when he realized he was cornered. Then of course there are those who believe he is actually still alive. I don't think it matters who made the fatal blow but I am going to wager that he's not currently on an island with Marilyn or Elvis.

Last stop was his grave. Said to be the second most visited grave site in South America after Evita in Argentina, which I visited at the start of my trip. Brutal. I am SUCH a TOURIST.

Second Fun Fact: 2 years ago someone stole Pablo's tombstone. This is the replacement.   I guess it's true ... what goes around, comes around.  

xo b

Medellin - A playground with many faces

Once again I am pleasantly impressed with a city that has previously been given a 'bad wrap'. 

Though I wouldn't go so far as to say that all corruption in Medellin is a thing of the past, it seems to me that the current government has invested in the city over the past 15+  years and it shows!

There are a number of well developed museums, public spaces and an outstanding transit system that includes a gondola up to a national park you can access easily from anywhere in the city.

After a successful bus journey and a 6 hour 'nap' from 4am - 10 am, Justine and I met up with Nikki (California) at our hostel on day one of our Medellin adventures and headed out to see the sights - we managed to walk through one of the most dodgy and poor areas right out of the gates (by accident) but walking with confidence had no issues. whoops.

Over the course of our first 3 days we visited the following sites:

1. Museo de Agua: only open for a few months it is a highly interactive and well executed museum outlining the impact water has on earth.

2. Uribe Palace of Culture (striped building in image above) and surrounding Plaza Botero:  Green space which is filled with donated bronze sculptures from Medellin's own Fernando Botero.  If you aren't familiar with Botero's work I will summarize it to say he liked to present the more rotund version of his subjects.

For Aunty H and Kruz' benefit I will admit that the statement I imagined all of his subjects make, once they see the finished product, is "Are you calling me fat?"

3. Parque Explora:  A theme park of science experiments, a reptile room, random rubbery dinosaurs and a swank aquarium next to the Botanical Gardens complete with an orchid area nestled under the coolest wooden roof which also acts as a site for local events.
Now you tell me this city isn't worth visiting.

Tomorrow we're going to take a tour of the city as described through the life of Pablo Escobar. Let's see if that changes my mind concerning this city any.

Nighty Night. 

xo b

Coffee 101

I have to admit that Coffee & I, well we´ve had a rollercoaster of a relationship. Strangely enough, we only started seeing eachother in China in 2000 when for all the tea in China I couldn´t find any I liked and figuratively dipped my toe into the world of coffee instead. Years later I learned that my personality doesn't blend well with caffeine. I love that so many of your probably roll your eyes, thinking you could have told me that WAY sooner.  

Anyways, the decaffeination process has once again brought us together and being in Colombia I was interested in how the bean; that is responsible for starting most of our days, is grown etc.  Luckily Salento is in the coffee area of Colombia so a group of us decided to take the tour. My expectations for the tour were pretty low and I was pleasantly impressed with all that we learned and had the chance to see first hand.

The photo to the left is a summary of all the stages but I'll elaborate further a little later in this post.
Allow me to first pass on some of my newly gained 'general' knowledge.
1. There are two varieties of beans... Arabia = high flavour but low caffeine at 2/3 of the world's bean production and Robusta = the high caffeine low flavour remaining 1/3.
2. Three top producers in order of volume Brazil, Vietnam, Colombia.
3. To decaffienate coffee the best way roast the beans over charcoal. Each time you do this 15% of the caffeine is removed so repeat as required.

Impressed yet? Didn't think so... you are a tough crowd (you take after me a little in that way) Okay... here let me try again.

After the hostel owner (a British gent who rambled a little but was full of info once he got warmed up) gave us the one hour english rundown on coffee plantations he sent us down to his farm to see it all first hand.

Obviously the process starts with a bean (all with the intention of ending with many of course)... and moves to become two little leaves in a few weeks. A plant takes 3 years to deliver any 'fruit' at which time beautiful plump 'cherries' are harvested by hand in either of the two annual rainy seasons and then a machine is used to 'pop the cherries' exposing the two beans inside the red skins.

The beans are soaked for up to 72hrs to remove the sugars (and any that float are separated for domestic sale as they are considered lower quality beans... which is why it is so hard to get a good coffee in a country that produces so much for the rest of the globe!), then it is off to the metal roof to dry in the sun before being sold based on weight.

The farm lead went so far as to take a frying pan full of beans off the drying roof, remove the second skins in the grinder with some help from Roma and myself, roast them on the stove and once again run them through the grinder (more finely this time) to brew some 'home grown' coffee on the spot.

Take that Starbucks!

Understandably the coffee wasn't decaf so I only sipped a small amount but overall it was a wonderfully educational and 'hands on' trip down coffee lane.
Gold star Salento.

The farm also produces fruit like lulo (similar in flavour to lemon), mora (blackberry), bananas and pineapples as well as tobacco and some pretty stunning flowers. If anyone ever offers you a lulo and mora fresh jugo... go for it and thank me later.

Tonight we leave for Medellin. The trip takes 7hrs so could be done during the day but after a week in Colombia all but two days have been spent on a bus, for some duration of time, and that just gets OLD. Better to take a night bus and not lose so much daylight.

We'll arrive at about 3am and pray that our chosen hostel will be open and have available beds!

Cross your fingers!
xo
b

The sound... of silence

Now this is what I am talking about!

Since I couldn't be home for this May long weekend, the Valley of Cocora, which is situated slightly outside Salento will forever rank highly in my memory as a terrific replacement. 

I spent a full day in the countryside and though I started out with two other travellers and later our group expanded to five with the addition of two Colombians visiting from Bogota I still managed to spend the majority of the day on my own (who knew I was such a speedy walker?) just enjoying the stunning scenery and contemplating all I´ve seen and done in the past 4 months.

The trail took about 5 solid hours for me to complete and was bookended with 45min jeep rides to and from Salento, but it was really a spectacular day. 

Walking in some seriously muddy conditions (check out the team to the left) I was very thankful our hostel provided rain boots for the adventure. Especially since many people chose to ride horses as opposed to walking and the cows and horses leave tons of ¨landmines¨. The trail takes you through cow fields, across rivers, into a nature reserve focusing on hummingbirds, up a ¨mountain¨ that rose to 2,950m (because what South American adventure is complete without a little thin air) and finally through the ancient wax palm forest I had truely been looking forward to.   As I walked into the valley for the last 90minutes it was like the trees were insulating the path and I was in another world.

As I close in on the final weeks of my trip I am often distracted by all I am missing at home by being here. Can you believe it! ´The grass is always greener´ theory is such a monster.

At home I can´t contain the excitement I build up when I start thinking about taking these trips and then when I am away I slowly start to think more & more of home.  Today, however, was an exception. Though I do miss home and am endlessly thankful to have a family, friends and a country I adore, today I focused on all the incredible memories I´ve accumulated through this 7 country adventure. I am really so very lucky. Make no mistake home was on my mind when I passed this insanely coloured mushroom & Eriskay´s smile popped into my mind. But, I know I will see her and V soon enough and for now there are a few more gems to try to visit before I board my AC flight for a summer in Canada!   

xoxo b